Jay Rayner's most recent review (of the restaurant at the Royal Institution) is a joy to read. It's so acidly funny. Here are some choice bits.

He opens with:

I am always intrigued by the way clever people can have really stupid ideas. And so to the Royal Institution.

And describes the food:

The fish cakes were hockey-puck sized, shaped and, in a deft act of consistency, textured. They were dry and dense. I could have hurt a member of staff if I'd lobbed one. I considered it.

And concludes with:

Let's just say I ate that lunch so you wouldn't have to.

I don't know what the equivalent phrase in English, but in Hokkien, I'd call him wonderfully guai lan.